Five centuries of American costume
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- Publication date
- 2004
- Topics
- Clothing and dress, Clothing and dress
- Publisher
- Mineola, N.Y. : Dover Publications
- Collection
- inlibrary; printdisabled; internetarchivebooks; china
- Digitizing sponsor
- Kahle/Austin Foundation
- Contributor
- Internet Archive
- Language
- English
Originally published: New York : Charles Scribner's Sons, 1963
Includes bibliographical references (pages 203-207)
Chapter 1. The Earliest Settlers in America -- Vikings -- Eskimos -- The Coming of the White Men -- The Mayan Civilization -- The Aztec Civilization -- The Inca Civilization -- The North American Indians -- Chapter 2. Military-1492 to 1700 -- Ancient Armies -- Medieval Period -- Liveries and Armor -- Passing of Armor, Crossbow and Arrow -- Uniform in France -- Spain of the 16th Century -- Lansquenets -- The Thirty Years War -- Buffcoat -- British Develop an Army Uniform -- Scarlet Cloth -- Helmet and Iron Skullcap -- Cocked Hat -- Grenadier Cap -- Soldiers' Hair and Wigs -- Boots -- Jack Leather -- Sailor -- Marine -- New Amsterdam -- Chapter 3. Military-18th Century -- European Standing Armies -- Colors -- Epaulettes -- French Regiments -- Prussian Influence -- European Mercenaries into Militia -- English Militia -- American Militia of Farmers and Woodsmen -- Hunting Dress Uniform -- Indian Moccasin -- The Rifle -- Lack of Uniform Cloth -- The Cockade -- The Continental Army -- Problems of the Uniform -- Cocked Hat -- Tricorne -- Jockey Cap -- Hungarian Shako -- Wigs -- Natural Hair in Mid-Century -- Sailor -- British Marine Dress -- U.S. Uniform in 1798 -- Green for the Marine Corps -- Basic Blue for Dress and Parade -- Chapter 4. Military-19th Century -- Brilliant Color in Uniform Discarded -- Hair and Whiskers Shortened -- New Marine Uniform -- Changes in Dress -- West Point Adopts Gray -- Seamen -- War with Mexico -- Campaign Uniform Blue and Gray -- Chevrons in 1847 -- Dark Blue Frock Coat in 1850's -- The Civil War -- North American Confederate -- Machine-made Shoes -- The Sewing Machine and Uniforms -- White Cork Helmet -- Khaki First Used by the British -- Spanish-American War -- Stable Dress of the Rough Riders -- Campaign Hat -- Puttees, a British First -- Chapter 5. Military-20th Century -- Khaki, U.S. Army, 1902 -- New British Features in World War I -- The Overseas Cap and the Return of the Helmet -- World War II -- New Uniform Color -- Eisenhower Jacket -- Changes of 1960 -- Permanent Trouser Crease -- The Service Cap -- Camouflage and the Jungle Suit -- Boots -- U.S. Dress Manual, Navy, 1959 -- Traditional Sailor Garb Retained -- Aiguillettes -- Fourragere -- Women in Service -- New Inventions in Soldiers' Service Dress -- Armor in the Korean War -- The Air Force -- Trips Into Outer Space -- Chapter 6. The Colonists-16th and 17th Centuries -- The Settlers -- Spanish -- Portuguese -- French -- Dutch -- New Amsterdam -- Beaver -- English in Virginia, Delaware and the Carolinas -- Tobacco -- The Huguenots in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the Carolinas and Virginia -- English Settlers of New England -- Pilgrim Fathers -- Puritans -- Quakers -- Swedish on the Delaware -- Germans in Pennsylvania -- German, Swiss and Scotch-Irish Trekked Southward by Way of Philadelphia -- Regional Dress -- The Frontiersman -- Muffs -- Cloaks -- The Change of Men's Dress to Modern Form -- Chapter 7. Civil Dress-18th Century -- Fashion Babies -- English Fashions -- French Fashions -- The Hairdo -- Masks -- Caps and Bonnets -- Brides -- Wigs -- Cocked Hat -- Hatmaking -- Banyan -- Footwear -- The American Cobbler -- Woodsman's Shoepak -- Workman's Clothes -- Washington's Inauguration Dress -- Simple Fashions Precede the French Revolution -- Chapter 8. Civil Dress-19th Century -- The Country Spreads West -- Discovery of Gold -- French and English Fashions -- Feminine Underwear -- Roman Sandals -- Spencer -- Cloaks -- Shawl -- Hairdo -- Turbans -- London Sets the Tone for Men -- Beau Brummell -- Bathing -- Frock Hat -- Cravat -- American Collars and Shirts -- American Paper Patterns -- Garibaldi Shirt -- Sewing Machine -- Machine to Factory -- 'Thirties -- Silk Top Hat -- Growth of Manufacturing -- Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve -- Pantalets and Mrs. Bloomer -- Petticoat into Crinoline -- Steel Hoops -- Bustle -- Bonnets and Caps -- Hairdo -- Mantles -- Footwear -- Silk Petticoats -- Basque Bodice -- Mourning -- Aprons -- Frock Coat -- Sack Coat -- Tuxedo -- Box Coat -- Top Hat of Polished Silk Beaver -- Derby -- Boater -- Country Clothes -- Norfolk Suit -- Sports -- Cowboy -- Sea Bathing -- Feminine Tailored Suit -- Gibson Girl and Man -- Wasp Waist -- Princess Gown -- Feminine Underwear -- Marcel Wave -- Bathing -- The Coming of the Bathroom -- Crease in Trousers -- Trouser Cuffs -- Chapter 9. Civil Dress-20th Century -- Men 1900 to 1910 -- The American Way of Life -- London the Arbiter of Men's Dress -- Peg-top Trousers -- Polo Coat -- Norfolk Suit -- Motoring Dress -- Broad Shoulders -- Polo Shirt -- Masculine Underwear -- Women 1900 to 1910 -- Straight Front Corset -- Rainy Day Skirt -- Gibson Girl -- Kimono Sleeve -- Empire Mode -- Hobble Skirt -- Hairdo -- Permanent Wave -- Bobbed Hair -- Picture Hats -- Motorcar Dress -- Footwear -- Lingerie -- Bathing Suit -- Men 1910 to 1920 -- World War I -- Effect of Italian Military Silhouette -- Women 1910 to 1920 -- Paris Sets the Fashion -- Paul Poiret and the Natural Figure -- Harem Skirt -- Robe de Style -- Short Chemise Frock -- Jersey Cloth -- American Synthetic Fabrics -- Boyish Form or Debutante Slouch -- Lingerie -- End of Brown and Black Stockings -- Blond Hosiery -- Stockings with Bathing Suits -- Men 1920 to 1930 -- Change in Silhouette -- Oxford Bags -- Plus Fours -- Synthetic Fabrics -- Raccoon Coats -- Slouch Hat -- Women 1920 to 1930 -- The Flapper -- Boyish Form -- The Ensemble -- Knitted One-piece Suit -- Cloche -- Hairdo -- Cosmetics -- Suntan -- Nail Polish -- Men 1930 to 1940 -- Change in Silhouette -- Gaucho Sport Shirt -- Masculine Underwear -- Footwear -- Swim Trunks -- Women 1930 to 1940 -- Costume for Every Event -- Mae West's Curves -- Lastex -- Slide Fastener -- Halter Neck -- Bare Midriff -- Cotton -- Dirndl Skirt -- Shocking Pink -- Square Shoulders -- Doll Hats -- Hatlessness -- Hairdo -- Footwear -- Steel Spike Heel -- Nylons -- Fake Jewelry -- Play Clothes -- One-piece Swim Suit -- Men 1940 to 1950 -- World War II -- Scarcities -- Topcoats -- Sports Shirts -- Scarves -- Homburg -- Flat Cap -- Loafer Shoes -- Polo Boot -- Women 1940 to 1950 -- Fabrics -- New Look 1947 -- Change in Silhouette -- Christian Dior -- Femininity Again -- Cocktail Dress -- Little Hats and No Hats -- Footwear -- Bikini -- Men 1950 to 1960 -- Gray and Black Period -- Change in Silhouette -- Ivy League -- Continental -- New Synthetic Fabrics -- Wash-and-Wear -- Topcoats -- Raincoats -- Evening Wear -- College Fashions -- Shorts and Slacks -- Outer Shirts -- The Hatless Male -- New Hats -- Reshaped Scarfs and Footwear -- Women 1950 to 1960 -- From Housedress to Shorts and Slacks -- Blue Jeans or Levis -- Golf and Tennis -- Shirtdress -- Dirndl Skirt -- Chemise or Sack -- Chanel Suit -- Culottes of Norman Norell -- Frankly Fake Furs -- Hats -- Mainbocher's Sweaters -- Hairdo and Color -- Cosmetics -- Chapter 10. Children-16th to 20th Centuries -- 16th and 17th Centuries -- Children of the Renaissance -- Linen Chemise -- The Gertrude -- Dress-up Clothes -- Coif -- Doublet and Stomacher -- Boys in Dresses -- Pinafore -- Swaddling Bands -- Hanging Sleeves -- Scarlet, the Favored Color -- 18th Century -- English Children First into Comfortable Dress -- Writers of the Age of Reason -- Jean Jacques Rousseau -- Little Girls' Muslin Frock -- Swaddling Clothes -- Christening Dress -- Yellow, the Traditional Christening Color -- 19th Century -- Empire Fashion -- Kate Greenaway -- Playclothes -- Boys in Pantaloons Hair Cropped -- End of Child's Corset -- False Pantalets -- Drawers for Girls and Women by 1830's -- Pantalets Below Skirt to 1858 -- Caps and Hats -- Cloaks -- The 1820's Fussiness in Dress to 1910 -- Boys "Breeched" at Four -- Sailor Suit -- Caps, Hats, and the Topper -- Older Boys in Trousers -- Vogue of Historical Dress in the 1830's -- Scottish Kilt and Marine Suit in America -- Trousers, Pantaloons, and Pantalets -- Aprons -- Wire Hoops -- Bustle in the 1860's -- Frilled Drawers -- Stockings -- Footwear -- Hairdo -- Basque Bodice -- Footwear -- Small Boy Sometimes in Skirts to Six -- Baby's Trousseau -- The "Biggin" -- Christening Robe -- Little Lord Fauntleroy -- Kate Greenaway Fashions
Includes bibliographical references (pages 203-207)
Chapter 1. The Earliest Settlers in America -- Vikings -- Eskimos -- The Coming of the White Men -- The Mayan Civilization -- The Aztec Civilization -- The Inca Civilization -- The North American Indians -- Chapter 2. Military-1492 to 1700 -- Ancient Armies -- Medieval Period -- Liveries and Armor -- Passing of Armor, Crossbow and Arrow -- Uniform in France -- Spain of the 16th Century -- Lansquenets -- The Thirty Years War -- Buffcoat -- British Develop an Army Uniform -- Scarlet Cloth -- Helmet and Iron Skullcap -- Cocked Hat -- Grenadier Cap -- Soldiers' Hair and Wigs -- Boots -- Jack Leather -- Sailor -- Marine -- New Amsterdam -- Chapter 3. Military-18th Century -- European Standing Armies -- Colors -- Epaulettes -- French Regiments -- Prussian Influence -- European Mercenaries into Militia -- English Militia -- American Militia of Farmers and Woodsmen -- Hunting Dress Uniform -- Indian Moccasin -- The Rifle -- Lack of Uniform Cloth -- The Cockade -- The Continental Army -- Problems of the Uniform -- Cocked Hat -- Tricorne -- Jockey Cap -- Hungarian Shako -- Wigs -- Natural Hair in Mid-Century -- Sailor -- British Marine Dress -- U.S. Uniform in 1798 -- Green for the Marine Corps -- Basic Blue for Dress and Parade -- Chapter 4. Military-19th Century -- Brilliant Color in Uniform Discarded -- Hair and Whiskers Shortened -- New Marine Uniform -- Changes in Dress -- West Point Adopts Gray -- Seamen -- War with Mexico -- Campaign Uniform Blue and Gray -- Chevrons in 1847 -- Dark Blue Frock Coat in 1850's -- The Civil War -- North American Confederate -- Machine-made Shoes -- The Sewing Machine and Uniforms -- White Cork Helmet -- Khaki First Used by the British -- Spanish-American War -- Stable Dress of the Rough Riders -- Campaign Hat -- Puttees, a British First -- Chapter 5. Military-20th Century -- Khaki, U.S. Army, 1902 -- New British Features in World War I -- The Overseas Cap and the Return of the Helmet -- World War II -- New Uniform Color -- Eisenhower Jacket -- Changes of 1960 -- Permanent Trouser Crease -- The Service Cap -- Camouflage and the Jungle Suit -- Boots -- U.S. Dress Manual, Navy, 1959 -- Traditional Sailor Garb Retained -- Aiguillettes -- Fourragere -- Women in Service -- New Inventions in Soldiers' Service Dress -- Armor in the Korean War -- The Air Force -- Trips Into Outer Space -- Chapter 6. The Colonists-16th and 17th Centuries -- The Settlers -- Spanish -- Portuguese -- French -- Dutch -- New Amsterdam -- Beaver -- English in Virginia, Delaware and the Carolinas -- Tobacco -- The Huguenots in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the Carolinas and Virginia -- English Settlers of New England -- Pilgrim Fathers -- Puritans -- Quakers -- Swedish on the Delaware -- Germans in Pennsylvania -- German, Swiss and Scotch-Irish Trekked Southward by Way of Philadelphia -- Regional Dress -- The Frontiersman -- Muffs -- Cloaks -- The Change of Men's Dress to Modern Form -- Chapter 7. Civil Dress-18th Century -- Fashion Babies -- English Fashions -- French Fashions -- The Hairdo -- Masks -- Caps and Bonnets -- Brides -- Wigs -- Cocked Hat -- Hatmaking -- Banyan -- Footwear -- The American Cobbler -- Woodsman's Shoepak -- Workman's Clothes -- Washington's Inauguration Dress -- Simple Fashions Precede the French Revolution -- Chapter 8. Civil Dress-19th Century -- The Country Spreads West -- Discovery of Gold -- French and English Fashions -- Feminine Underwear -- Roman Sandals -- Spencer -- Cloaks -- Shawl -- Hairdo -- Turbans -- London Sets the Tone for Men -- Beau Brummell -- Bathing -- Frock Hat -- Cravat -- American Collars and Shirts -- American Paper Patterns -- Garibaldi Shirt -- Sewing Machine -- Machine to Factory -- 'Thirties -- Silk Top Hat -- Growth of Manufacturing -- Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve -- Pantalets and Mrs. Bloomer -- Petticoat into Crinoline -- Steel Hoops -- Bustle -- Bonnets and Caps -- Hairdo -- Mantles -- Footwear -- Silk Petticoats -- Basque Bodice -- Mourning -- Aprons -- Frock Coat -- Sack Coat -- Tuxedo -- Box Coat -- Top Hat of Polished Silk Beaver -- Derby -- Boater -- Country Clothes -- Norfolk Suit -- Sports -- Cowboy -- Sea Bathing -- Feminine Tailored Suit -- Gibson Girl and Man -- Wasp Waist -- Princess Gown -- Feminine Underwear -- Marcel Wave -- Bathing -- The Coming of the Bathroom -- Crease in Trousers -- Trouser Cuffs -- Chapter 9. Civil Dress-20th Century -- Men 1900 to 1910 -- The American Way of Life -- London the Arbiter of Men's Dress -- Peg-top Trousers -- Polo Coat -- Norfolk Suit -- Motoring Dress -- Broad Shoulders -- Polo Shirt -- Masculine Underwear -- Women 1900 to 1910 -- Straight Front Corset -- Rainy Day Skirt -- Gibson Girl -- Kimono Sleeve -- Empire Mode -- Hobble Skirt -- Hairdo -- Permanent Wave -- Bobbed Hair -- Picture Hats -- Motorcar Dress -- Footwear -- Lingerie -- Bathing Suit -- Men 1910 to 1920 -- World War I -- Effect of Italian Military Silhouette -- Women 1910 to 1920 -- Paris Sets the Fashion -- Paul Poiret and the Natural Figure -- Harem Skirt -- Robe de Style -- Short Chemise Frock -- Jersey Cloth -- American Synthetic Fabrics -- Boyish Form or Debutante Slouch -- Lingerie -- End of Brown and Black Stockings -- Blond Hosiery -- Stockings with Bathing Suits -- Men 1920 to 1930 -- Change in Silhouette -- Oxford Bags -- Plus Fours -- Synthetic Fabrics -- Raccoon Coats -- Slouch Hat -- Women 1920 to 1930 -- The Flapper -- Boyish Form -- The Ensemble -- Knitted One-piece Suit -- Cloche -- Hairdo -- Cosmetics -- Suntan -- Nail Polish -- Men 1930 to 1940 -- Change in Silhouette -- Gaucho Sport Shirt -- Masculine Underwear -- Footwear -- Swim Trunks -- Women 1930 to 1940 -- Costume for Every Event -- Mae West's Curves -- Lastex -- Slide Fastener -- Halter Neck -- Bare Midriff -- Cotton -- Dirndl Skirt -- Shocking Pink -- Square Shoulders -- Doll Hats -- Hatlessness -- Hairdo -- Footwear -- Steel Spike Heel -- Nylons -- Fake Jewelry -- Play Clothes -- One-piece Swim Suit -- Men 1940 to 1950 -- World War II -- Scarcities -- Topcoats -- Sports Shirts -- Scarves -- Homburg -- Flat Cap -- Loafer Shoes -- Polo Boot -- Women 1940 to 1950 -- Fabrics -- New Look 1947 -- Change in Silhouette -- Christian Dior -- Femininity Again -- Cocktail Dress -- Little Hats and No Hats -- Footwear -- Bikini -- Men 1950 to 1960 -- Gray and Black Period -- Change in Silhouette -- Ivy League -- Continental -- New Synthetic Fabrics -- Wash-and-Wear -- Topcoats -- Raincoats -- Evening Wear -- College Fashions -- Shorts and Slacks -- Outer Shirts -- The Hatless Male -- New Hats -- Reshaped Scarfs and Footwear -- Women 1950 to 1960 -- From Housedress to Shorts and Slacks -- Blue Jeans or Levis -- Golf and Tennis -- Shirtdress -- Dirndl Skirt -- Chemise or Sack -- Chanel Suit -- Culottes of Norman Norell -- Frankly Fake Furs -- Hats -- Mainbocher's Sweaters -- Hairdo and Color -- Cosmetics -- Chapter 10. Children-16th to 20th Centuries -- 16th and 17th Centuries -- Children of the Renaissance -- Linen Chemise -- The Gertrude -- Dress-up Clothes -- Coif -- Doublet and Stomacher -- Boys in Dresses -- Pinafore -- Swaddling Bands -- Hanging Sleeves -- Scarlet, the Favored Color -- 18th Century -- English Children First into Comfortable Dress -- Writers of the Age of Reason -- Jean Jacques Rousseau -- Little Girls' Muslin Frock -- Swaddling Clothes -- Christening Dress -- Yellow, the Traditional Christening Color -- 19th Century -- Empire Fashion -- Kate Greenaway -- Playclothes -- Boys in Pantaloons Hair Cropped -- End of Child's Corset -- False Pantalets -- Drawers for Girls and Women by 1830's -- Pantalets Below Skirt to 1858 -- Caps and Hats -- Cloaks -- The 1820's Fussiness in Dress to 1910 -- Boys "Breeched" at Four -- Sailor Suit -- Caps, Hats, and the Topper -- Older Boys in Trousers -- Vogue of Historical Dress in the 1830's -- Scottish Kilt and Marine Suit in America -- Trousers, Pantaloons, and Pantalets -- Aprons -- Wire Hoops -- Bustle in the 1860's -- Frilled Drawers -- Stockings -- Footwear -- Hairdo -- Basque Bodice -- Footwear -- Small Boy Sometimes in Skirts to Six -- Baby's Trousseau -- The "Biggin" -- Christening Robe -- Little Lord Fauntleroy -- Kate Greenaway Fashions
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- Addeddate
- 2013-09-16 14:17:59.491174
- Bookplateleaf
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- Mineola, N.Y.
- Donor
- bostonpubliclibrary
- Edition
- Dover ed.
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- Pages
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